Sobre potenciarlo fueron arduas horas de buskeda y rekopialcion de datos y les paso el dato ALTIRO k el DIESEL no podran potenciarlo solo les akonsejo kambiar el motro sale mucho mas bararto y menos engorroso .. el KIT KOMO TAL no existe solo hay k dedikarse a pedir cada pieza por separado y todas afuera no hay ninguna made in chile pero si kieren mas datos pueden empezar a buskar por mejoras segun modelo de motor en mi kazo komense por el KA24E ( OJO EXISTE LA VERSION KA24D) pondre la k logre konseguirme por ally em la enviaron en ingles eso si y no me pidan k la traduska eso es tarea para ustedes mismos.....
These are the Prerequisites to building a SOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.
Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body
Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
DSM 450cc Injectors or Comparable (These injectors are low impedence, while the ECU requires high impedence. Making it necessary to wire in resistors to alter that so the ECU can control them. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.
Fuel Control
DSM 450cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Eprom Tuning or a JWT. This is the largest JWT is capable of flashing for those that want it.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"
Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.
Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.
NOTA SE PUEDE SGUIR SUBIENDO AL POTENCIA PERO INPLIKA MUCHOS KAMBIOS Y MAS LUKAS si pa dejarlo mas potente la otra alternativa es ponerle peron sin pensarlo mucho un motor V6 de los mismos nissan para no tener problema kon los anklajes y hablariamso un motor modelo VQ Y VG si no mas lo recuerdo
enlaces donde puden konseguir mas datos acerca de los nissan terranos
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WWW.OSCARO.ES ( repuestos originales)
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WWW.FOROS.4X4.TT (ESPAÑOLA ARTOS DATOS)
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http://WWW.FORO.POWER.CL/viewtopic.p...2814&p=3140713 ( SEGUN EL XANTA LO ISO EN UNA D21 Y DICE K EL DA KOMO 14 POR LITRO DUDABLE)
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WWW.CLUBNISSAN.CL
TENGO MAS PAGINAS DONDE BUSKAR KOZAS PA MEJORAR NUESTROS MARRANOS SI KIEREN MAS ME PREGUNTAN NO MAS Y LE DOY MAS DATOS